Asleep under my bed

Tonight Margo fell asleep with her head in her water bowl.  Twice.  She is the definition of the saying “dog-tired.”  After a long day of classes, she will be ready for bed early.

She is also very happy that fall is on its way– it is way too hot for her.  I hope one day she lives with someone up north because she hates the Georgia sun.  Anywhere we go she can easily find an air vent, throw her chubby belly on top, and refuse to move.  In the case of our apartment, she has her own fan that she lets blow cool air on her face all day long.  And what a smart puppy Margo is!  At only ten weeks of age, she is an expert at “sit” and “down.”  However, she does not like dog biscuits or food very much– she performs best for two things: ice cubes and water.

Margo and her favorite fan

Grandpa cutting the birthday cake!

Sunday my grandpa, Richard Wright, came over to our house for what he thought would be a normal Sunday afternoon lunch with my parents and I.  He was definitely surprised to find a big group awaiting him to celebrate his 80th birthday a little early!  With the cars hidden by the pool, he never suspected that it would be his special day.  Gathering all the grandkids together for a single afternoon is a hard task to accomplish, but we pulled it off to celebrate the world’s best Grandpa.

Why is he the world’s best Grandpa?  I could list 80 reasons (and more) but I will only name a few due to the call of schoolwork.

First, he served our country for many years in the Navy, where some of his favorite memories were made, giving him a plethora of great tales.

He grows the best vegetable garden I’ve ever seen in his backyard.  Every year I would look forward to eating his homegrown tomatoes, cucumbers, and squash.  He even grows cherry tomatoes just for me!

The only thing comparable to his green thumb is his wood-working skills.  He helped with our treehouse, built unique birdhouses, and even big reindeer (complete with red noses) to stand in our yard in December.

Still a kid at heart, Grandpa has a great game and puzzle collection.  My favorite was always the stomp-rocket, where you stomp on a plastic air-bubble and a rocket shoots up high in the sky (or sometimes the trees).

Grandpa catches lots of squirrels and chipmunks in a trap but he always releases them somewhere else.

I’ve built one model airplane in my life, a fun project with Grandpa, in the exact model of a plane he flew in the Navy.

Grandpa reads books all the time, like me, and he always has a huge stack waiting next to his chair.  Did you know you can get brand-new best-sellers at goodwill for only a few dollars?  That’s what he does, and then he brings me some of the best ones.  He even reads and prints all of my blogs (Hi Grandpa!).

Grandpa, Grandma, and all the grandkids!

He loves to pet-sit our high maintenance dog Charley, and he spoils her with treats and special toys.

Of course he spoils all the grandkids too, with the help of my grandma, and between the two of them we could not ask for more.  They take us out to lunch all the time, and it always makes me feel so special.

Happy 80th birthday to the World’s Best Grandpa, I love you!

Margo waiting for the bus

Today was the biggest first by far- Margo’s first day of college.  Quite a leap throwing a baby into microbiology!  The morning started with her first bus ride.  The bus ride wore her out enough that she then slept through all of class (don’t blame her, it’s microbiology).  It is amazing how smart this little pup is already.  She is on the fast track to being housetrained and knows how to sit and lay down, all learned in under a week.  Of course we have much practice to come, but she really is the perfect Future Guide Dog.

However, to add a little spice to my daily life, I will be embarking on a new adventure tomorrow.  Tomorrow a seven-week-old black lab puppy will be arriving from New York to Athens and will be staying with me for the next year.  He is not any ordinary dog though–this little guy will grow up to be a guide dog for someone with blindness.  He will one day lead a person throughout his or her daily routine, navigating streets and helping at work.

The Guide Dog Foundation is a non-profit that provides guide dogs free of charge.  Each dog costs over $55,000 to breed and train, which is paid for completely by donations.  The dogs are named by donors, often in memory of a loved one.  The puppies are bred in New York and then live with “puppy walkers” for the first year of their life, learning basic obedience and good manners before returning to New York for official training.  Guide dogs in training have the same rights as guide dogs (in Georgia), so the dog can go with me wherever I go, including class, restaurants, and even grocery shopping.  Yes, I am aware that this will be a large undertaking, but I think it will be the perfect way to make my senior year at UGA even better.  And I hate to brag, but I am pretty much an expert at picking up poop.

First, a ferry ride from Menaggio to Belaggio and back on Lake Como.

Second, a bus ride from Menaggio to Como.

Third, a train ride from Como to Milan.

Fourth, a plane from Milan to London.

Fifth, a taxi ride to the hostel in London.

On that note, I have failed to mention the various hostels from the last couple weeks.  Each hostel has its own special character and charm.  And every one has its own wide range of rules.  A few favorite hostel rules:

• Leave the key at the desk when you go out.  In other words, you can’t go in or out of your room unless someone is at reception.
• The hostel is closed between 10 am and 4 pm.  In other words, if you need something from your room within that time frame, you’re out of luck.  And you must also have somewhere to go and something to do for at least 6 hours straight (though that is not much of a problem).
• Leave your stuff on your bed to claim it as your own.
• Automatic shower timer cuts the water off after 5 minutes.  One free shower each day, and you may pay for additional shower time.

Though the bathrooms are generally messy, and wet clothes somehow hang all over the rooms, hostels are also quite fun.  With dorm rooms ranging in size from four to sixteen beds, there is always someone interesting to meet and talk with, as well as free advice from other travelers.

Charley is happy I'm home too- begging for me to never leave her again

After 10 weeks of travel, last night I returned stateside to Georgia, where I was happy to finally spend the night in my own bed.  My wonderful parents took me to the OK Cafe for a proper southern meal: sweet potato, macaroni and cheese, squash casserole, fried green tomatoes, and of course, cornbread.  In all that time away from home I kept thinking how great the Greek and Italian food and culture is, yet I somehow forgot how we have great food and culture too.

Sometimes it takes a break from what you have everyday to really appreciate it, and today I am so happy to be home.

View of Lake Como from Monte Grona

Italy’s northern lakes have an exceptional beauty that none can rival, Lake Como (also known as Lago di Como) in particular.  Lake Como abounds in peace and serenity, nestled in the shadows of great mountains on every side.  Little orange-tiled towns dot the coastline, giving the lake a fun and friendly atmosphere for all visitors.

Yesterday, I had the entire day free to explore the lake, with so many options to choose from—kayaking, sailing, swimming, biking… the list continues.  But why stay on the lake when I could explore the mountains towering over it?  So I started an epic hike to the peak of Monte Grona, the rumored best view of Como.  And not only is it the best view of Como, but of the two other nearby lakes and even into Switzerland.

The hike was challenging to say the least, with several hours of an uphill battle to reach the top.  Cliffside drop-offs allowed for full panoramas of the lake area, and a much appreciated breeze.  At 1400 meters up, there is a resting spot and small restaurant called Rifugio, where fellow hikers sit on the edge to enjoy the well-earned view.  From the Rifugio point, there is the choice to return to the bottom or to take the trail less traveled and continue to the mountain’s peak.  Naturally, I took the trail less traveled, curving around Monte Grona’s face and weaving on a path marked only by previous feet.  Taking my time and selectively choosing the safest places to step, I finally managed to reach the top.  Was it worth the effort?  Absolutely—the view was breath-taking (literally) and the best reward for a little hard work.

I give the second place award to Grom, a gelateria in Florence (and also Venice) that makes its gelato from fresh organic ingredients.  Grom specializes in creamy fruit flavors, but it goes above the average gelateria with its very own crema di Grom flavor.

Honorable mention goes to Gelateria della Palma in Rome, which has over 150 different flavors of gelato, including some exotic ones like chocolate red pepper or smarties.  Likewise, Old Bridge in Rome deserves special mention for the biggest serving for the lowest price, with the smallest size being three giant scoops of all different flavors.

Gelateria della Palma — 150 Flavors

So if those are the top gelaterias, what are the best flavors?  I generally divide gelato into two broad categories: fruits and dessert varieties.  The Italians are best at the fruit flavors, making refreshing gelato out of every fruit possible, so when going for the best gelato I would advise a fruit flavor.  However, the chocolatey types are also very good, and always satisfy my sweet craving with swirls of chocolate and chunks of cookies in every bite.  But I have to say that my favorite flavor is always tiramisu, an Italian specialty.

However, part way through the trip I learned a major part of ordering gelato to improve the taste—the art of flavor combination.  Italians say that certain flavors “marry well” together, and it is heaven when you hit a perfect combination.  For example, tiramisu is great alone, but it is off the charts when combined with cinnamon flavor.  Other award winning combinations are forest fruits & yogurt and dark chocolate & amaretto, though the combination is entirely up to the gelato consumer, and the options are endless.

There’s also something to be said about the presentation of gelato.  The displays are so irresistible with bright colors, real fruits, candy bars, and the giant fluffy mounds of gelato.  The servers do not scoop out of a cardboard container hidden in a hole like at home but fill your cup with the

Gelato (amaretto, kiwi, and kinder flavors)

gelato from the metal bowl in which it was made.  Also, I have never seen a server scooping out the last part of a flavor from the bottom, as they always keep fresh-made gelato in the front, never serving “old” stuff.  Italians take great pride in their special gelato, with reason, as it rises above all other ice cream in the world.  I have no shame in my addiction, and I will continue to eat gelato at least once each day throughout the remainder of this trip.

I confess that I officially have an addiction to gelato.  Some people say that gelato is just the Italian word for ice cream, but that is not the truth.  Gelato is creamier, smoother, and tastes so much better than the average ice cream.  It is made from milk and sugar rather than from cream.  And to top it off, gelato has less fat than regular ice cream, thereby making it a healthy choice in my opinion.

My love for gelato has transformed this entire trip from a tour of Italy into a search for the best gelato in the world.  Yes, that is a lofty ambition, and it has required much research.  In every city I read through several guidebooks to determine where they claim the city’s best gelato is located.  Then I try each of the “best” gelaterias, sampling flavors and selecting a new one each time.  I also scour the streets for the hidden gelaterias that are not given credit in the guidebooks.  If the rumors are true, the best gelato can be found in Florence.  But what is the truth?  Where is the world’s best gelato?

Gaint Sorrentine Lemon

What is so special about lemons in Sorrento?  They are both abundant
in the wild and grow well in cultivated groves.  But beyond that, the
lemons grow massive.  I’ve never seen lemons this size.  Every fruit
stand causes my jaw to drop open and gape at the size of the lemons.
Most of them are about as big as my head.  Each lemon could make its
own pitcher of lemonade!

Sorrento has been a great place to pause from traveling and relax in
the sun.  A gentle breeze keeps the heat from pressing down like in
the rest of Italy, and the town is lively and entertaining.  It is
also a great place to branch out from, visiting sites like Pompeii,
the Amalfi Coast, and the island of Capri.

Yesterday I took a trip to Capri that deserves special mention.  Don’t
get me wrong, Capri is lovely, but I must put out a word of warning to
not take a boat around the island.

Island of Capri

Every guide book says to do so, but they fail to mention the rough water and swaying boat.  I have never been seasick before, but the boat ride was enough to even make my steel stomach queasy.  After recuperating on land, it was still
possible to enjoy a nice afternoon on the island exploring town and even seeing the curvy Mamma Mia! road.

City of Pompeii

In the year 79 AD, there was a busy city in southern Italy, Pompeii, which was home to 20,000 people.  The city was strikingly similar to a city of today’s modern world, with high-class houses, bakeries, theaters, and even fast food joints.  Pompeii had amenities above many other societies of the time, including indoor plumbing and an advanced road system that eliminated traffic much more efficiently than the highways of the present.

On August 24, of the year 79, the city-dwellers were bustling about in their everyday lives when something very strange happened.  The mountain outside the city rumbled and erupted, sending an enormous cloud of ash and dust into the air.  The people most likely had no idea what a volcano was, and much less that their own Mount Vesuvius on the horizon had such explosive capabilities.  The eruption continued for eighteen hours, sending over eight feet of hot ash to bury the great city of Pompeii and 2,000 of its residents.

Plaster cast of a Pompeii victim

There are now plaster casts of the people in the terrifying moments of death, capturing their expressions and horror for all future generations.

Today I had the chance to visit Pompeii, to see the ruins and what the city was like in its heyday.  The ash preserved the city so that much of it remains the same, allowing visitors a look into the world of the first century.  Walking through the dusty city streets, I could not believe how real the city seemed in comparison to other ruin sites.  It is as if the people still live there, bake bread, drive carts down the streets, and visit the baths.  Yet at the same time, evidence of the natural disaster is everywhere.  The city is completely grey, much like an old photograph, and gives the feeling of walking through a black and white movie.  Almost two millennia of rain and wind and three centuries of digging have not removed the dust and ash from the city streets.

Main square of Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius

Whenever a wind picked up, the dust and ashes brushed against my skin, making me wonder: is this volcanic ash, or human ashes?  I will never forget the eeriness of the grey streets and buildings of Pompeii, with Mount Vesuvius looming in the background over its ruined city.